Jil Sander Fashions displayed basic cotton tees worn with showstopping and floor-sweeping skirts, some given a dramatic injection of volume from the waist down, others starting narrower and then fanning to the ground. It doesn’t explain the fabulous color on skirts in retina-blinding shades of fluorescent pink and orange, or the intriguing use of the reverse side of an opulent, full-blown floral silk or industrial, phosphorous-green techno-cotton, so that they ended up looking like distant memories of what they once were.
Raf Simons designer for Jil Sander succeeded doing just that rather brilliantly. He turned to the language of couture when it speaks of shape, not lavish handwork, and suffused nearly the entire collection with it, his parkas billowing. While the trousers were cut as lavishly wide with extreme and daring proportions, yes, but they underscored and amplified the story of spring: Everything is getting longer and fuller.
Cast your eye at one look that appeared towards the end, a black tee with wide pants in the reverse green, a cobalt-blue peplum adding another unexpected moment of volume. It’s elegant, and sporty, and looks that rare thing these days—new.
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